3 Skin cool

Makeup for a flawless complexion

1 Primer
It can be a great idea to use a clear primer if you’re planning on applying foundation to your skin. The primer will even out your skin, by creating a protective layer and ‘fill in’ any fine lines. Applying primer will also save you a lot of foundation, as the foundation will go on very smoothly after having applied a primer.

Some primers have multi-purposes, often known as color correctors, that can help to reduce redness, brighten skin tone, add luminosity or in other ways color-correct. Using these on problematic areas can help you avoid a heavy layer of foundation, and keep your face from looking like a mask.

Green – used against redness
Pale pink – is used against blue-toned spots on fair skin
Peach – is used against blue/purple shadows on medium skin
Yellow – is used against purple/dark shadows on olive/tan skin
Lavender – used to cancel out yellow tones
Orangey pink – used against dark spots on dark skin

2 Foundation
Foundation should only be applied to even out your skin color in areas where the skin might be discolored, like redness on your forehead, nose, chin, under the eyes etc. Go for a sheer/medium covering foundation for a natural and youthful look.

Be careful with very dry areas and sharp creases on your skin, like crust under your nose or a dry forehead, as foundation will only make the dry flakes stand out instead of hiding them.

A liquid foundation will suit most skin types. Buff the foundation in with downwards motions, using your fingers, a foundation brush or a beauty blender.

If you have oily skin, go for a water-based liquid foundation instead of an oil-based foundation. Also a powder foundation can be a great choice if you struggle with oily areas. Buff the powder foundation in with downwards motions for a matte finish.

Cool undertone foundation
A lot of brands have several shades for different undertones. A cool foundation will often look a bit pink in the bottle, opposite to a warm foundation that will look more yellow. A lot of brands have labeled their products with W (Warm), N (Neutral) or C (Cool) to show the undertone. Also letting the sales assistant know about your undertone, can help you in getting the right samples.

Get 3 samples of foundations, with the most resemblance to your skin color. Make 3 stripes next to each other on your chin or upper neck, and inspect the products in daylight. The one that seems to disappear is the right one for you.

BareMinerals is one of the brands that has several shades for cool skin tones depending on how dark or fair your skin is:

Skin color
Light
-> Fair
Medium -> Fairly medium, medium
Tan -> Medium tan
Dark -> Dark
Deep -> Medium Deep

3 Covering concealer
Use a pigmented concealer in the same shade as your foundation, on areas that the foundation didn’t cover. Put on a small amount on the spot and blend it out with your finger or a concealer brush. Avoid using concealer on very dry areas, as it will only highlight the dry skin.

4 Brightening concealer
If you deal with darkness under your eyes, it can be a great idea to use a sheer light-reflecting concealer in a color that is 1-2 tones lighter than your natural skin color. Apply the sheer concealer under your eyes in a triangle and blend it out with your finger, a concealer brush or a beauty blender.

5 Contour and highlight
Contour can make your face appear slimmer and more chiseled. A classic contour is the application of a foundation or powder that is 1-2 tones darker than your natural skin color, creating the illusion of a shadow. Make the duck face and place a line of contour underneath your cheekbones and jaw, to make your face appear slimmer. Then blend with a large kabuki brush or a beauty blender.

You can enhance the contoured effect by applying highlighter or a foundation/powder that is 1-2 shades lighter than your natural skin color. Apply on top of your cheekbones to make the contrast even more apparent. Some highlighters even have reflective properties that enhances the contrast even further, though it will create more of a “makeup” look.

6 Cool undertone blush
Blush will, as the name suggest, make it seem like you’re blushing in a subtle way. Make a big smile and apply a small amount on the apples of your cheeks. Then blend it with your finger or a kabuki brush.

When it comes to blush, it is interestingly enough colors with the opposite undertone of yours, that will flatter you the most. An opposite color will instantly pop and add dimension. Go for a blush with more orangey undertones like a warm peach or a soft orange. Also a hot pink tends to look great on every skin type. Avoid blushes with a cool pink or a purple tint, as they can often appear too bright and ‘overdone’ on a cool undertone.*

7 Setting
A great foundation and concealer will usually stay in place without setting it with powder, except on places where your skin tends to get very oily throughout the day.

Set your makeup in these areas (forehead, nose, chin or similar) with a matte translucent powder, or a matte powder in the same color as your foundation. Buff it in with a powder brush or a powder puff. If you want a porcelain finish you can also ‘bake’ your makeup, by applying a larger amount of powder, let it sit for a couple of minutes and then dust off the excess.

If you don’t like the “powdered” look, you can also use a moisturizing setting spray to lock in the makeup.

8 Cool undertone lips
When it comes to lips, it will be the blue- and purple undertones that will you flatter you the most, as oppose to more orangy colors. Go for berry, mauve, roses, burgundy, medium-dark pink or even a plum color. Big plus – all blue- and purple based lipsticks will make your teeth look whiter in an instant! Just watch out for very sheer light lip colors, as they can wash out your face.

A sure hit is also a natural lip color enhancer, that will give you the most natural yet vibrant lip color.

>> Eyebrows